1. If I go to my Health Food Stores (in my case, Whole Foods) and look for H202 will it say “Food Grade” on it or, will it say “All Natural” or something of that nature? I just took a peek at my drug store h202 and it doesn’t list any ingredients…it just says “ACTIVE INGREDIENT: Hydrogen Peroxide”. Which leads me to believe that there are other “inactive” ingredients…maybe those are the things we don’t want to spray or soak with

I can’t tell you if Whole Foods has it or not. You’ll need to ask them. Should they have it? They would have 10 years ago. Now they look like a traditional grocery store to me but that’s another topic.
Read This Fact Sheet on what each ‘grade’ of H202 contains: http://www.h2o2-4u.com/grades.html

Yes, a health-food-type store selling it should have it labeled “FOOD GRADE”. The US gov’t requires that “food” grade “meet Food Chemical Codex requirements”. http://msds.fmc.com/msds/100000010225-MSDS_US-E.pdf

i. What that means is Tin (Stannate) is added – an organotin. The “World of Organotin Chemicals” would like us to know that tin-based stabilizers are getting a bad rap in the ecotoxicological and toxicological world:
http://www.ortepa.org/WorldofOrganotinChemicals.pdf

ii. I feel “comfortable” enough with the issue that I do use the “Food Grade”. If you can’t get the PDF file by clicking on that link, go to www.ortepa.org, to “about organotin”, and click on: “The World of Organotin Chemicals”

The 2nd grade that is “safe” is called “Technical”. Again, it is described at:
http://www.h2o2-4u.com/grades.html

i. It is described as “essentially free of inorganic metals suitable for chemical synthesis”.

ii. Can you get this at Whole Foods or any other store? No.

iii. Can you buy it anywhere? Yes.

iv. Why don’t I talk about this and promote it? Because, most people don’t want to hear all the technical mumbo-jumbo of why I buy THAT instead of “food grade”, wanting the easy answer AND at a low cost. You can’t have both. The Haz-Mat mailing charges are +$20 plus postage PLUS the cost of the H202.

I can buy 32 oz in my local health food store (which has no product identification – someone has taken a big jug of H202, refilled smaller containers, and reselling it) for $22.

It is over twice that cost to buy an equivalent amount through my supplier.

Do I feel people are not safe buying the “food grade”? No, or I would never
suggest it.

Do I feel people are unsafe buying the brown-bottle drugstore variety? Yes.

i. Read what’s in it at: http://www.h2o2-4u.com/grades.html

ii. Having worked in the food processing industry, both at a food-processing plant level AND at a food-sanitizing level (owned my own film and video production company – spent 20 years producing training/video, educational programs for the food processing and food sanitation industry), I’ve learned to
respect other people who have been “inside” and now have an awakened view as to Right and Wrong.

Clyde, who owns www.h202-4u.com is one of those people. Call him. Ask him. He’s been around the block, so to speak, has designed H202 equipment for the industry, and when he retired, decided people needed Technical Grade H202. Study his websheet: http://www.h2o2-4u.com/grades.html

i. Does he believe that “Food Grade” is unsafe? No.

ii. His beef with “Food Grade” is that often the people filling the bottles rip you off. It may say 35% but most of it tests out to 17%. Real 35% freezes at -33f as in 33 below Zero – just like the Minnesota winters
of my childhood, but I digress…..

iii. You can test “Food Grade” in your freezer. If it freezes, it isn’t 35%.

iv. What does he personally use? His own technical grade – that’s the Food Grade but without the Tin (Stannate) additive. Again, see his page at http://www.h2o2-4u.com/grades.html

v. Does he think that the “brown bottle” variety of H202 should ever be consumed? He nearly fainted at the suggestion of that. LOL. Ask him and he’ll react as if you’re suggesting we all consume poison. He’s sweet and honest.

As far as the ACV goes, does that have to be organic/raw or can I just get the regular stuff?

I use Organic Bragg’s when dealing with anything food. Don’t break the organic theme, you know?

Caveat – if you are cleaning a surface that is white, and that you don’t want stained (like some white-stone table-tops that I have), you would need to use white vinegar. You won’t have the killing toxic substance going for you, but that isn’t the purpose – the purpose is to bleach, therefore, use white vinegar.

I apologize for asking this because I think it’s been addressed but I can’t find the post. When you soak or sprout, do you just use the h202 or do you do the h202/ACV combo. My guess is just h202…but, do you exclusively h202?

You’re a good guesser. Use H202 exclusively on the FIRST SOAK (after you have thoroughly rinsed your sprouting material.)

I’m playing with adding whey on the 2nd soak. I tend to dump the first soak water after a few hours, rinsing the sprouts and then refilling with a 2nd clean soak. I hate seeing all that “dirty” water sitting on my sprouts.

Think H202/ACV – sanitize outer skins of veggies, fruits, counters, cutting boards, dish cloths, sponges, scrubbers, inside refrigerator, and especially around tubs and toilets as a mold/mildew/fungus killer.

I had tons of studies I collected one time from the medical industry studying surface contact time and how effective H202/ACV were for killing off deadly bacteria/mold/mildew/fungus. I’m going to have to dig those up again…been awhile.

Think H202 ONLY – NO ACV – when sanitizing/preparing bottles/jars for fermenting, bottling, etc. or for use in the washing machine.

i. Because I have a front-load washer, known for building up mildew, I use H202 in the “bleach” section of my machine. Cleans clothes, cleans the washer.

ii. Remember, a major use in the food processing industry is to sanitize aseptic packaging for food. It’s really good at that.

iii. ANY place you use bleach, use H202.